Roma (AKA My Life As The Lizzie McGuire Movie)

Ok, I'm typing this on an Italian key board (yes they're different than American ones) at my internship at Palazzo Vecchio, so please forgive the typos that probably will occur.

First of all: I LOVE ROME! It was a busy and tiring trip, but I loved every second of it and it was definitely up there in my top fav trips and is definitely in my top 5 fav cities in the world!!!! IT WAS SPECTACULAR!

Ancient Roman marble copy of Greek Bronze, Loacoon

SUF met at the train station at 8:15 for our Eurostar fast train to Rome. I met up with Sarah, Cynthia, Liz, and Tara. Tim and Andrew were also key players on the trip. Slept most of the way there, but did enjoy the pretty views of  the Italian countryside from the train. The weather was nice! Crisp, but clear. I'd expected rain the entire weekend, but instead we had brilliant blue skies and cotton candy clouds! Rome was so green too, I didn't expect so many parks and plants. I felt like I was in a movie. Like the Lizzie McGuire Movie. So basically it was my goal to replace my Italian twin pop sensation and expose her lip-synching partner at a live performance at the Colosseum. But I'll get to that part of the story in a bit. 

First on our agenda was Vatican City. We hopped off the bus that took us from the train station to the other side of the city, split for a coffee break. Sarah, Cynthia, and Tara got crepes at a nearby cafe, when a lady approached us asking if we'd dropped our tour book. None of us had a tour book, and there weren't any other English speakers around, so Liz took the book and it turned out to be very hand later on! We then went to meet up the big group at the entrance to the Vatican Museum. We toured through the museum, walking through the Raphael Rooms (where the School of Athens fresco is located! Eeeeeee!!!!). The ultimate destination through the Vatican Museum is the Sistine Chapel, followed by St. Peter's. It was strange, it was like Disneyland for Catholics. And art historians. Lots of lines, lots of weaving through barricades, lots of things to entertain you as you wait, but you knew there was something bigger in better ahead! Maybe I should look into getting an internship there instead of at Disney...JK! Anyway, we finally made it to the Sistine Chapel which we oohed and ahhed over for a good amount of time. They say you're not allowed to take pictures in the Sistine Chapel, but other people were snapping away, so I did too! With one of the field study chaperon's official tour guide badge, we then went through a secret door that took us right into St. Peter's, where we continued to ooh and aah and Michaelangelo's Pieta, the tombs of many of the popes buried there, the altar by Bernini, and the sheer size of the basilica! We were set free for a lunch break at that point, but I took us down to the crypt to see where more popes were buried (including JP1 & 2!) and to see a little window into the sanctuary of St. Peter, you know, where his bones are and everything. Very cool stuff.
 

Hello, Swiss Guard!

So my other goal for the trip (aside from finding my Italian twin pop sensation) was to see how little money I could spend. I'd packed my lunch, so after Liz consulted the new guidebook, I walked with Liz, Sarah, Tara, Andrew, Tim, and Cynthia to the restaurant they had picked out of the guidebook. After a guidebook hand off (which was now in my possession), I saw them off and went back to St. Peter's. There's an obelisk right in the center of the Piazza of St. Peter's, and right in front of it they were building the papal Nativity set for the first Sunday of Advent. Curious me, I start snooping around the blocked off area, hoping to catch a glimpse. When the wind blew up a side of the covering (it was mostly covered up to the public), I made eye contact with one of the workers inside and he started walked towards me. I thought I was in trouble, but he came over and we started talking in

Vatican Gardens

Italian as I asked him what was going on and what were they building? He asked me if I wanted to see for myself. I figured, hey, it's Vatican City. I can't get hurt here or else the Pope will be mad. So I climbed over the little fence and under the covering, and got to climb to the top of the papal Nativity set! Life sized manger and everything! It wasn't anything too spectacular, they were just in the middle of constructing the set itself, like the barn where all the figures would be, but it was a tour no one else got! The construction worker ushered me out, and I still had an hour or so to explore, so I walked down near the Tiber River and popped into a large basilica church called Santo Spirito nearby, and then went and explored the gardens of the Castel'Angelo, more or less a castle where Medici popes used to lock themselves up in. I headed back from my explorations just in time for the head count at the meeting point.

We got back on the bus, went tour our hotel, and checked in. I roomed with Sarah and Tara. I figured Sarah and I would end up together. After dropping off my bag, I turned around and went back downstairs to wait for Fr. Michael. A little before 5, a man walked in and asked the front desk several questions before he said

Piazza of St. Peter's

my room number out loud and started to call up on the house phone. I stopped him and introduced myself. 

He was so nice! He told me to bundle up, it was cold outside (it was), and we started walking towards his school. Ok, so this is what I understand. He's one of several American priests who teaches at a religious institution. He teaches the Byzantine cannon (written in Latin, class discussions in Italian). There are students and priests from around the whole world who study and teach there. After signing me in as a guest, the sun was almost down so he quickly showed me the garden (lovely!) and the library where students were studying. After that, we left the school and went across the street to our first stop, Santa Maria Majore, where the first gold from the New World was used to guild the coffered ceiling! That's where we saw our first (of many) relics, a piece of the wood from the manger of Jesus. So the whole

The Map Hall in the Vatican

church is dedicated to the Nativity and Mary as the Mother of God. I'm going to be the first to say, that it was AWESOME being toured around these churches with a priest. Fr. Michael knew SO much about the art, the patronage, etc. I felt really privileged. We went to 6 churches in 60 minutes. First of all, wow, Fr. Michael can make moves across the city. We covered a good amount of ground. We saw the icon of Our Lady of Perpetual Help (painted by St. Luke), we saw the top of the cross where it was written "Jesus, King of the Jews" along with part of the spear that pierced Jesus' side, the finger of St. Thomas that went into Jesus' side, the head of John the Baptist, the table from the Last Supper, and I'm sure I'm forgetting some but I'll be sure to include them once I  remember. Along the way Fr. Michael pointed out the world's first ice cream parlor, a gelateria called. G.Fossi. Tempted to take me in, he concluded that "There's just something about ice cream before dinner though" and we carried on. But I made a mental note of the location. We finished back at the institute, where Fr. Michael took me up to the Rectory for dinner, and I was more than pleased. We dined on vegetable soup, a spinach and cheese pastry as the main course, broccoli, grilled tomatoes, and potatoes. We joined another American priest for dinner with wine at the table and talked about their Thanksgivings (at the Vatican with turkey) and about flying and travel (especially to and from the States). Mostly everyone else was at was a big priest meeting (their version of a chapter meeting I think?) but both Fr.

Making my wish at the Trevi Fountain

Michael and this American priest from Chicago had gone to one back in May and didn't have to go this time around. After a dessert of fruit, we grabbed our jackets and Fr. Michael walked me back to the hotel. I really appreciated the tour and time with him, and gave him a big hug before he left. 

I let the girls know I was back, and that I'd wait to meet up with them after their dinner out. In the meantime, I flipped on the TV in the hotel and the Lizzie McGuire Movie was on in Italian!!!!! Eeeeee! So I was the happiest little muffin waiting for them before we ventured off to the Trevi Fountain!

After a lot of confusion, I finally met back up with Liz, Tara, and Sarah at a metro stop by the train station. We then began our exploration for the Trevi Fountain (which is supposed to be really beautiful lit up at night, and let me tell you, it is). We ran into some freshman also on the Rome trip on the way, and when we finally got oriented, made it to the Fountain in a cinch. We all made wishes and threw coins into the fountain, and enjoyed some photo opts by the landmark. We returned to the hotel a little before midnight, and we were exhausted, but had a 7:30 wake up call to look forward to.

Saturday morning was focused on Ancient Rome. We rolled out of bed, rotated out of the bathroom, and made our way downstairs for breakfast of croissants, rolls, deli meats, cheese, yogurt, cereal, you name it. I may or may not have made a few mini sandwiches for the day. Great life decision in retrospect. We all left our backpacks with the bellhop at the hotel (they stashed our bags for the day), and the group got headsets and followed whichever TA's voice was at the other end of ours to the Colosseum. 

Since Rome is the Washington DC of Italy, there was a planned protest for Saturday that started right by our hotel (by the train station) and was to wind around to the Colosseum, so we ran in order to beat the crowd. When we did get there, though, it was well worth the rush. Wowed and stunned beyond belief, the ruins and the monuments in this area of Rome are just indescribable! We took our time talking about the structure and how it was an engineering marvel, then went inside and talked about gladiators and felt like spectators ourselves. Taking lots of photos and group photos and just walking around jaw dropped, we had a lot of fun being history buffs and seeing it come alive! After our time in the Colosseum, we were ushered right across the street to the Roman Forum, which was like the city center of the ancient time. There was the basilica, which was the courthouse/town hall more or less, several temples, ruins beyond belief, triumphal arches, and everything so ANCIENT and Roman. It was very romantic in the sense that I felt ready to sit with Lord Byron and Mary Shelley among the ruins to write poetry and philosophize about the meaning of life, and then go have a cup of tea. I was enjoying it. Especially since I had Dean Martin singing to me in Italian in one ear with the TA lecturing in the other. Now that's the way to set the mood! We climbed to the top of the Capitoline Hill (a piazza designed by Michelangelo) and then were took across the city the the Pantheon. Again, a lot of oohing and aahing! I got dizzy looking up. Even today the Pantheon stands as the largest dome in the world (circumference wise, not height wise). And, Raphael's buried there! After a short talk about the Pantheon, we were dismissed for lunch. 

View of the Colosseum

In two hours, a small group of 18 lucky students (first come first serve for sign ups--you can bet your bottom dollar I was the #2 spot signed up) were to meet at Villa Borghese for an afternoon tour. Unfortunately, Villa Borghese is on the outskirts of the city, quite far from the Pantheon. Also unfortunately, we were on our own to get there. But we had two hours, the TAs said it was about a 45 minute leisurely walk, and I said, hey, we got time! I was all set to walk. Liz was trying to figure out if there were buses or a metro that went out that far. Nope, not quite. Besides, I argued, I wanted to see the Spanish Steps, and they were along the way. Let's explore! Taking the map and the lead of the group, Liz started walking due to the right. But it was almost one, everyone was famished (I'd packed a lunch, so I was set!). Liz was making it a priority to get to Villa Borghese. But food needed to be a priority. After twisting and turning down several streets and alley ways, we stopped the group, pointed out a pizzeria, and I said, go eat. I left them and told them I'd met up with them after, I was going to take my time and eat my lunch on the Spanish Steps! 

Listening to the lecture among ancient Roman ruins, NBD

But first, there was this church I wanted to dive into. I was reading the information plaque outside when an Italian man asked me, "You like churches?" and I nodded my head. He gave me his card, and told me there was the most beautiful church after the Vatican (of course) right across the street from his pizzeria, and I had to go check it out, as soon as I could because they close at 1. I thanked him, and after I satiated my curiosity with the first church I was in front of, I trekked up the street to find this beautiful church. Unfortunately, I was much too late (it was after 1 when I met the man, around 1:30 when I found the church) so I didn't get to peek in, even though I tried several entrances. Oh well. But from that church I was a block away from the Spanish Steps, and headed over and rested my knees and feet for a little (we were doing a LOT of walking!). I enjoyed my lunch of croissants, and rolls, and fruit, and yogurt and people watched. I was amused two female police officers trying to get the peddlers around the steps in trouble. Tim and Andrew and a group of girls showed up, and I called down to them, and they came and sat with me for a while. Sarah and the rest of the lunch gang met up a short while later. Together we all took off for Villa Borghese, which wasn't far from the Steps at that point! Through a beautiful park and at the top of another hill, we got to the Villa with 15 minutes to spare.

Cool Roman Forum ruins as seen from the top of the Colosseum

Villa Borghese is significant because the Borghese family specifically set aside this "country" home right outside the original city walls of Rome to house works of art that they patronized. So the fact that the art is in the original context is great. It's home to some great sculptures by Bernini, filled with movement and drama, a David, a Daphene and Apollo scene, and a Rape of Persephone that really stood out. But the reason I was so excited about life is that the Borghese is home to 6 Caravaggio

Pantheon

paintings out of the 56 or so that exist in the world. Great treat! Upstairs there was an exhibition of sorts with two surprise Raphael paintings just hanging out, including my favorite, the Lady with the Unicorn!

We finished at Villa Borghese around 4:30. Our train ticket was for 7:30, we needed to be at the station by 7. On my to do list was to visit one more church Fr. Michael had pointed out but we didn't have time to go in, and to see the Ecstasy of St. Theresa by Bernini. I accumulated a small group (Tim, Andrew, Sarah, Susan, Tara, Emma) and we walked out of the Borghese park and straight down a boulevard to Santa Maria della Vittoria, the church that held the St. Theresa statue. We got there just before closing time. I made the gang read the passage from St. Theresa's writings that describe the vision that Bernini depicts in his sculpture (essentially, a spiritual orgasm, I kid you not). Great fun. Also in the church is the body of St. Victoria. A little waxen looking with some blood on her neck from a piercing wound (stabbed in the throat?), missing her real hair (clearly wearing a wig) and teeth in bad decay (maybe she could use a visit to Doc Rob?), she wasn't looking to shabby for a third century saint! We left that church and went down the road to Santa Maria degli Angeli, where most of Angels and Demons was filmed, and is a "big" church in Rome to go see. Originally the place of Roman Termini baths, it still maintains its basic Roman structure with idealized Renaissance additions in the interior. Pope Clement XI commissioned a sundial/meridian line to be built inside the church, which is where I think the whole Angels & Demons part comes into play (wouldn't know, didn't see the

The Extascy of St. Theresa

movie!). But it was originally built to predict the exact date of Easter! Susan, Tara, and Sarah were all really blown away by the church so I was happy I could entertain them.

We went back to the hotel to pick up our bags, but still had an hour to kill. The boys went to the train station to see if they could change their tickets (they did, after much cajoling), and we picked up Rachel, a SU freshman, and Calvin, who goes to Brown and is friends with Tara. Anyway, we had an hour to kill and I remembered that Fossi gelateria Fr. Michael had walked us past. I was determined to go. And, besides, I'd gone the WHOLE weekend without spending more than a dime (technically, exactly a dime since I threw a 5E cent piece in the Trevi fountain...) but I deserved a gelato from the first gelateria in the whole wide world! After a little confusion, and some serious map reading, we got there, and wow, it was WORTH IT. It was easily the BEST gelato I've had since I've been in Italy. They say three things get better as you go south in Italy, the pizza, the weather, and the gelato. WOW. I got a cone full of chocolate, hazelnut, and tiramisu, and they plopped on a whopping serving of homemade whipped cream on top. Wow. It was so good. So good. And SO much for 2E. Easily, the best 2E I spent in Rome (haha). Thinking about it now makes my mouth water. Nothing will compare after that. Nothing. So good. Wow. A big thank you to Fr. Michael for pointing the place out to me!

After a 10 minute walk to the train station, we got there right at 7:05 when our platform was posted, and we hopped on the train. A short bus ride later and I was home sweet home by 9:30 or so.

Today, I spent the day at Palazzo Vecchio. Today was the Florence Marathon, which was really cool except that meant the buses were running on a funny route. A route that didn't include Quartieri Gavinana (our neighborhood). So lucky me got to walk an hour to work in the rain. But it's ok because I got to listen to Christmas music (it is the first day of Advent after all) and cheer on the runners in Italian (I was literally walking along the marathon route). And today was just my luck, because no one showed up for any of my tours, so I was free to do whatever in the Museo. I took care of some homework, and then ran into my friend Emily with her dad, and gave them a tour of Palazzo Vecchio and took them in the secret passageway with the peephole. They really appreciated it, but I appreciated having something to do! When no one showed up for my 4pm tour (my last one of the day) I spent some time sitting behind the desk with Giale, but snuck out when she got busy with visitors around 4:30, and yep, you guessed it, walked back home in the rain. But again, it was ok, because I belted Christmas songs the whole way home and got to Anna's soaking wet, but in a very merry mood. I've now warmed up, showered, and now Hannah and I are waiting for dinner time. Successful weekend, aside from the part where I got all my homework done. On to that next!

Piazza della Repubblica at night