Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Barcelona
Other than my flight mishaps, Barcelona was amazing and wonderful and absolutely great!
We got in Thursday evening and adjusted to the Spanish way of living--places weren't open for dinner until 9! Our hostel was really interesting, it very much reminded me of a dorm: bright, colorful, and filled with kids. We walked into our room to find four beds--bunk beds. We didn't get any other roommates while we were there, and we found out that the top bunks folded up into the wall. We went to a nearby restaurant and tried Spanish sangria with our meal, it was delicious!
Up and at em early Friday morning, we left the hostel after breakfast and took the metro to Las Ramblas. We strolled up and down the big boulevard (I thought it was bigger back in the day, go figure) and watched the street performers, peeked into stores, and didn't get pick pocketed this time. We found a market on Las Ramblas called Mercat de Sant Josep and we strolled through it. It was a big open aired market filled with fresh food and full of people! The Spanish candy stands were the most fun to look at with the marscapone fruits and figures, they were too pretty to eat! But there was everything you could ever want in that market from fish right out of the sea, meats, vegetables and fruits, nuts, etc. I have to live in a place that
has that kind of market, it's so full of the culture! I seriously could've spent all day there people watching and strolling up and down those aisles. But Sam was itching to get to the beach, so we kept going down Las Ramblas and walked straight into Port Vell. We watched the
giant fish below the boats weaving around, there was a retractable bridge that we were waiting to cross to make it to the other side of the port and we picked out boats we liked and didn't liked (I was a big fan of the pirate looking ones or ones with dogs on them...Sam was picking them out for more sailor-ish reasons like the sails or their potential speed). We wound up on the other edge of the bridge and in a shopping mall where Sam was looking at soccer jerseys (really expensive) and where we could warm up. In the center of the mall was a giant defecating Santa, and I was shocked and confused. How sick were the Catalyonians? Sam explained to me that they have a fascination with that stuff for Christmas, and we walked around this 20-foot Christmas decoration looking for an English or Spanish explanation. Turns out, it's supposed to be a symbol of new life and that it works as a fertilizer and is supposed to bring the Spanish a bountiful new year. Well that's nice and all, but it's still pretty unusual.
We continued strolling along the port and we going to embark on a walk suggested by the guidebook Sam brought. We were by the aquarium, walked past a church called Maria di Pi, Mary of the Pine, and admired the Gothic architecture. We stopped in a place for lunch were I got my paella fixing and
Sam sampled some calamari. It was a beautiful weekend in Barcelona, but not beautiful enough to leave our coats at home, so we ran back to the hostel to grab jackets, and then walked to the beach from our hostel along another tree-lined Ramblas (which I think just means Avenue or Boulevard) to the beach for sunset. We made it to La Sagrada Familia, the crazy church that's been under construction for over 150 years, just before the sun finally went down, and I explained to Sam that there were four different architects for the
church, each who designed a different side of the facade, including Gaudi. The pope recently consecrated Sagrada Familia, about a month ago Anna called Hannah and I in to watch it on TV with her. But the church still looks like it's under some major construction! From 4-7, the city takes a major siesta, so we went back to the hostel to siesta too since everything was closed down.
Saturday morning started off with a bang like Friday, and we began our morning at Park Guell, Gaudi's park. We spent a significant amount of time hiking around, and saw every nook and cranny in the park.
Before when I'd been to Barcelona, we'd spent maybe a total of an hour there both times and saw the same things, but I saw and discovered parts of the park I never knew existed! We toured the one house that was built by Gaudi (it's pink! I never knew that was a possibility!) and it was like something out of Toon Town at Disneyland, very funky. We climbed to the top of a tall hill, the tallest part of the park, and admired the view of the city and port from where we were. After walking and talking and enjoy each others' company, we made our way through the park, heading to the Museum of Catalyan History, which was on the opposite end of the very big city. But we wanted to walk and see what we would see along the way. We stopped in a small local cafe for lunch where we sampled different tapas and chorizo bocadillas--delicious. We walked down a beautiful promenade (another Rambla!) for a while, until we spotted the Spanish version of the Arc di Triomf (how they spell it in Catalyan). Straight down past the pretty palm-tree lined Rambla was the Barri Gotic where the "Castle Park" was, which is home to many things, including the Barcelonaean zoo! Walking through the park, we watched the local university students perform magic tricks, teach yoga, play hoola hoop all on the grassy areas of the park. I really liked the park, and Sam and I enjoyed the sunshine in the late afternoon for a while
there. We kept trekking on, and wound up at the beach for sunset again! This time we were near a more commercial area, where someone at our hostel said all the clubs are lit up at night, rather than the residential area we were in yesterday. We watched the sunset and the people walking dogs on the beach.
We did find that the language spoken was Catalonyan, not Spanish, but Sam and I's high school Spanish got us by (ok, so really his high school Spanish got us by and my slow recollection of high school Spanish helped just a little). We returned to the hostel and cleaned up for dinner, and sampled empenadas and meat tart cookie of some sort (Sam thought it was a strawberry jam when
he ordered it, not a meat...but it was yummy in a really unique way) and dulce de leche cookies packed with delicious carmel.
Sunday's check out time was 10:30, so after a quick breakfast and clean up, we checked out but locked our luggage in storage units provided by the hostel, and spent the morning walking around the area of the city by our
hostel. We headed towards this large office building that lights up at night, walked around the shopping center there (nothing was open even though it was after 11), meandered by a peewee league soccer game and watched the really intense 6 year old soccer players (they were really good!), discovered some Roman-looking ruins (I could totally be making that up, but it definitely looked like a Roman aqueduct), and sampled some pastries from a local cafe. After spending a leisurely morning out and about, we grabbed our things, hopped on the metro towards the airport, and waited patiently for our flights. We said our last goodbyes for the semester, and wished each other good luck on finals.
I'm so lucky I had Sam to travel with all semester, he was such a great travel companion and our adventures and time together just keeps getting better and better! Talk about continued adventures!
We got in Thursday evening and adjusted to the Spanish way of living--places weren't open for dinner until 9! Our hostel was really interesting, it very much reminded me of a dorm: bright, colorful, and filled with kids. We walked into our room to find four beds--bunk beds. We didn't get any other roommates while we were there, and we found out that the top bunks folded up into the wall. We went to a nearby restaurant and tried Spanish sangria with our meal, it was delicious!
Up and at em early Friday morning, we left the hostel after breakfast and took the metro to Las Ramblas. We strolled up and down the big boulevard (I thought it was bigger back in the day, go figure) and watched the street performers, peeked into stores, and didn't get pick pocketed this time. We found a market on Las Ramblas called Mercat de Sant Josep and we strolled through it. It was a big open aired market filled with fresh food and full of people! The Spanish candy stands were the most fun to look at with the marscapone fruits and figures, they were too pretty to eat! But there was everything you could ever want in that market from fish right out of the sea, meats, vegetables and fruits, nuts, etc. I have to live in a place that
We continued strolling along the port and we going to embark on a walk suggested by the guidebook Sam brought. We were by the aquarium, walked past a church called Maria di Pi, Mary of the Pine, and admired the Gothic architecture. We stopped in a place for lunch were I got my paella fixing and
Saturday morning started off with a bang like Friday, and we began our morning at Park Guell, Gaudi's park. We spent a significant amount of time hiking around, and saw every nook and cranny in the park.
We did find that the language spoken was Catalonyan, not Spanish, but Sam and I's high school Spanish got us by (ok, so really his high school Spanish got us by and my slow recollection of high school Spanish helped just a little). We returned to the hostel and cleaned up for dinner, and sampled empenadas and meat tart cookie of some sort (Sam thought it was a strawberry jam when
Sunday's check out time was 10:30, so after a quick breakfast and clean up, we checked out but locked our luggage in storage units provided by the hostel, and spent the morning walking around the area of the city by our
I'm so lucky I had Sam to travel with all semester, he was such a great travel companion and our adventures and time together just keeps getting better and better! Talk about continued adventures!
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Roma (AKA My Life As The Lizzie McGuire Movie)
Ok, I'm typing this on an Italian key board (yes they're different than American ones) at my internship at Palazzo Vecchio, so please forgive the typos that probably will occur.
First of all: I LOVE ROME! It was a busy and tiring trip, but I loved every second of it and it was definitely up there in my top fav trips and is definitely in my top 5 fav cities in the world!!!! IT WAS SPECTACULAR!
| Ancient Roman marble copy of Greek Bronze, Loacoon |
First on our agenda was Vatican City. We hopped off the bus that took us from the train station to
the other side of the city, split for a coffee break. Sarah, Cynthia, and Tara got crepes at a nearby cafe, when a lady approached us asking if we'd dropped our tour book. None of us had a tour book, and there weren't any other English speakers around, so Liz took the book and it turned out to be very hand later on! We then went to meet up the big group at the entrance to the Vatican Museum. We toured through the museum, walking through the Raphael Rooms (where the School of Athens fresco is located! Eeeeeee!!!!). The ultimate destination through the Vatican Museum is the Sistine Chapel, followed by St. Peter's. It was strange, it was like Disneyland for Catholics. And art historians. Lots of lines, lots of weaving through barricades, lots of things to entertain you as you wait, but you knew there was something bigger in better ahead! Maybe I should look into getting an internship there instead of at Disney...JK! Anyway, we finally made it to the Sistine Chapel which we oohed and ahhed
over for a good amount of time. They say you're not allowed to take pictures in the Sistine Chapel, but other people were snapping away, so I did too! With one of the field study chaperon's official tour guide badge, we then went through a secret door that took us right into St. Peter's, where we continued to ooh and aah and Michaelangelo's Pieta, the tombs of many of the popes buried there, the altar by Bernini, and the sheer size of the basilica! We were set free for a lunch break at that point, but I took us down to the crypt to see where more popes were buried (including JP1 & 2!) and to see a little window into the sanctuary of St. Peter, you know, where his bones are and everything. Very cool stuff.
| Hello, Swiss Guard! |
So my other goal for the trip (aside from finding my Italian twin pop sensation) was to see how little money I could spend. I'd packed my lunch, so after Liz consulted the new guidebook, I walked with Liz, Sarah, Tara, Andrew, Tim, and Cynthia to the restaurant they had picked out of the guidebook. After a guidebook hand off (which was now in my possession), I saw them off and went back to St. Peter's. There's an obelisk right in the center of the Piazza of St. Peter's, and right in front of it they were building the papal Nativity set for the first Sunday of Advent. Curious me, I start snooping around the blocked off area, hoping to catch a glimpse. When the wind blew up a side of the covering (it was mostly covered up to the public), I made eye contact with one of the workers inside and he started walked towards me. I thought I was in trouble, but he came over and we started talking in
Italian as I asked him what was going on and what were they building? He asked me if I wanted to see for myself. I figured, hey, it's Vatican City. I can't get hurt here or else the Pope will be mad. So I climbed over the little fence and under the covering, and got to climb to the top of the papal Nativity set! Life sized manger and everything! It wasn't anything too spectacular, they were just in the middle of constructing the set itself, like the barn where all the figures would be, but it was a tour no one else got! The construction worker ushered me out, and I still had an hour or so to explore, so I walked down near the Tiber River and popped into a large basilica church called Santo Spirito nearby, and then went and explored the gardens of the Castel'Angelo, more or less a castle where Medici popes used to lock themselves up in. I headed back from my explorations just in time for the head count at the meeting point.
| Vatican Gardens |
We got back on the bus, went tour our hotel, and checked in. I roomed with Sarah and Tara. I figured Sarah and I would end up together. After dropping off my bag, I turned around and went back downstairs to wait for Fr. Michael. A little before 5, a man walked in and asked the front desk several questions before he said
my room number out loud and started to call up on the house phone. I stopped him and introduced myself.
He was so nice! He told me to bundle up, it was cold outside (it was), and we started walking towards his school. Ok, so this is what I understand. He's one of several American priests who teaches at a religious institution. He teaches the Byzantine cannon (written in Latin, class discussions in Italian). There are students and priests from around the whole world who study and teach there. After signing me in as a guest, the sun was almost down so he quickly showed me the garden (lovely!) and the library where students were studying. After that, we left the school and went across the street to our first stop, Santa Maria Majore, where the first gold from the New World was used to guild the coffered ceiling! That's where we saw our first (of many) relics, a piece of the wood from the manger of Jesus. So the whole
church is dedicated to the Nativity and Mary as the Mother of God. I'm going to be the first to say, that it was AWESOME being toured around these churches with a priest. Fr. Michael knew SO much about the art, the patronage, etc. I felt really privileged. We went to 6 churches in 60 minutes. First of all, wow, Fr. Michael can make moves across the city. We covered a good amount of ground. We saw the icon of Our Lady of Perpetual Help (painted by St. Luke), we saw the top of the cross where it was written "Jesus, King of the Jews" along with part of the spear that pierced Jesus' side, the finger of St. Thomas that went into Jesus' side, the head of John the Baptist, the table from the Last Supper, and I'm sure I'm forgetting some but I'll be sure to include them once I remember. Along the way Fr. Michael pointed out the world's first ice cream parlor, a gelateria called. G.Fossi. Tempted to take me in, he concluded that "There's just something about ice cream before dinner though" and we carried on. But I made a mental note of the location. We finished back at the institute, where Fr. Michael took me up to the Rectory for dinner, and I was more than pleased. We dined on vegetable soup, a spinach and cheese pastry as the main course, broccoli, grilled tomatoes, and potatoes. We joined another American priest for dinner with wine at the table and talked about their Thanksgivings (at the Vatican with turkey) and about flying and travel (especially to and from the States). Mostly everyone else was at was a big priest meeting (their version of a chapter meeting I think?) but both Fr.
Michael and this American priest from Chicago had gone to one back in May and didn't have to go this time around. After a dessert of fruit, we grabbed our jackets and Fr. Michael walked me back to the hotel. I really appreciated the tour and time with him, and gave him a big hug before he left.
| Piazza of St. Peter's |
He was so nice! He told me to bundle up, it was cold outside (it was), and we started walking towards his school. Ok, so this is what I understand. He's one of several American priests who teaches at a religious institution. He teaches the Byzantine cannon (written in Latin, class discussions in Italian). There are students and priests from around the whole world who study and teach there. After signing me in as a guest, the sun was almost down so he quickly showed me the garden (lovely!) and the library where students were studying. After that, we left the school and went across the street to our first stop, Santa Maria Majore, where the first gold from the New World was used to guild the coffered ceiling! That's where we saw our first (of many) relics, a piece of the wood from the manger of Jesus. So the whole
| The Map Hall in the Vatican |
| Making my wish at the Trevi Fountain |
I let the girls know I was back, and that I'd wait to meet up with them after their dinner out. In the meantime, I flipped on the TV in the hotel and the Lizzie McGuire Movie was on in Italian!!!!! Eeeeee! So I was the happiest little muffin waiting for them before we ventured off to the Trevi Fountain!
After a lot of confusion, I finally met back up with Liz, Tara, and Sarah at a metro stop by the train station. We then began our exploration for the Trevi Fountain (which is supposed to be really beautiful lit up at night, and let me tell you, it is). We ran into some freshman also on the Rome trip on the way, and when we finally got oriented, made it to the Fountain in a cinch. We all made wishes and threw coins into the fountain, and enjoyed some photo opts by the landmark. We returned to the hotel a little before midnight, and we were exhausted, but had a 7:30 wake up call to look forward to.
Saturday morning was focused on Ancient Rome. We rolled out of bed, rotated out of the bathroom, and made our way downstairs for breakfast of croissants, rolls, deli meats, cheese, yogurt, cereal, you name it. I may or may not have made a few mini sandwiches for the day. Great life decision in retrospect. We all left our backpacks with the bellhop at the hotel (they stashed our bags for the day), and the group got headsets and followed whichever TA's voice was at the other end of ours to the Colosseum.
Since Rome is the Washington DC of Italy, there was a planned protest for Saturday that started right by our hotel (by the train station) and was to wind around to the Colosseum, so we ran in order to beat the crowd. When we did get there, though, it was well worth the rush. Wowed and stunned beyond belief, the ruins and the monuments in this area of Rome are just indescribable! We took our time talking about the structure and how it was an engineering marvel, then went inside and talked about gladiators and felt like spectators ourselves. Taking lots of photos and group photos and just walking around jaw dropped, we had a lot of fun being history buffs and seeing it come alive! After our time in the Colosseum, we were ushered right across the street to the Roman Forum, which was like the city center of the ancient time. There was the basilica, which was the
courthouse/town hall more or less, several temples, ruins beyond belief, triumphal arches, and everything so ANCIENT and Roman. It was very romantic in the sense that I felt ready to sit with Lord Byron and Mary Shelley among the ruins to write poetry and philosophize about the meaning of life, and then go have a cup of tea. I was enjoying it. Especially since I had Dean Martin singing to me in Italian in one ear with the TA lecturing in the other. Now that's the way to set the mood! We climbed to the top of the Capitoline Hill (a piazza designed by Michelangelo) and then were took across the city the the Pantheon. Again, a lot of oohing and aahing! I got dizzy looking up. Even today the Pantheon stands as the largest dome in the world (circumference wise, not height wise). And, Raphael's buried there! After a short talk about the Pantheon, we were dismissed for lunch.
| View of the Colosseum |
| Listening to the lecture among ancient Roman ruins, NBD |
| Cool Roman Forum ruins as seen from the top of the Colosseum |
| Pantheon |
We finished at Villa Borghese around 4:30. Our train ticket was for 7:30, we needed to be at the station by 7. On my to do list was to visit one more church Fr. Michael had pointed out but we didn't have time to go in, and to see the Ecstasy of St. Theresa by Bernini. I accumulated a small group (Tim, Andrew, Sarah, Susan, Tara, Emma) and we walked out of the Borghese park and straight down a boulevard to Santa Maria della Vittoria, the church that held the St. Theresa statue. We got there just before closing time. I made the gang read the passage from St. Theresa's writings that describe the vision that Bernini depicts in his sculpture (essentially, a spiritual orgasm, I kid you not). Great fun. Also in the church is the body of St. Victoria. A little waxen looking with some blood on her neck from a piercing wound (stabbed in the throat?), missing her real hair (clearly wearing a wig) and teeth in bad decay (maybe she could use a visit to Doc Rob?), she wasn't looking to shabby for a third century saint! We left that church and went down the road to Santa Maria degli Angeli, where most of Angels and Demons was filmed, and is a "big" church in Rome to go see. Originally the place of Roman Termini baths, it still maintains its basic Roman structure with idealized Renaissance additions in the interior. Pope Clement XI commissioned a sundial/meridian line to be built inside the church, which is where I think the whole Angels & Demons part comes into play (wouldn't know, didn't see the
| The Extascy of St. Theresa |
We went back to the hotel to pick up our bags, but still had an hour to kill. The boys went to the train station to see if they could change their tickets (they did, after much cajoling), and we picked up Rachel, a SU freshman, and Calvin, who goes to Brown and is friends with Tara. Anyway, we had an hour to kill and I remembered that Fossi gelateria Fr. Michael had walked us past. I was determined to go. And, besides, I'd gone the WHOLE weekend without spending more than a dime (technically, exactly a dime since I threw a 5E cent piece in the Trevi fountain...) but I deserved a gelato from the first gelateria in the whole wide world! After a little confusion, and some serious map reading, we got there, and wow, it was WORTH IT. It was easily the BEST gelato I've had since I've been in Italy. They say three things get better as you go south in Italy, the pizza, the weather, and the gelato. WOW. I got a cone full of chocolate, hazelnut, and tiramisu, and they plopped on a whopping serving of homemade whipped cream on top. Wow. It was so good. So good. And SO much for 2E. Easily, the best 2E I spent in Rome (haha). Thinking about it now makes my mouth water. Nothing will compare after that. Nothing. So good. Wow. A big thank you to Fr. Michael for pointing the place out to me!
After a 10 minute walk to the train station, we got there right at 7:05 when our platform was posted, and we hopped on the train. A short bus ride later and I was home sweet home by 9:30 or so.
Today, I spent the day at Palazzo Vecchio. Today was the Florence Marathon, which was really cool except that meant the buses were running on a funny route. A route that didn't include Quartieri Gavinana (our neighborhood). So lucky me got to walk an hour to work in the rain. But it's ok because I got to listen to Christmas music (it is the first day of Advent after all) and cheer on the runners in Italian (I was literally walking along the marathon route). And today was just my luck, because no one showed up for any of my tours, so I was free to do whatever in the Museo. I took care of some homework, and then ran into my friend Emily with her dad, and gave them a tour of Palazzo Vecchio and took them in the secret passageway with the peephole. They really appreciated it, but I appreciated having something to do! When no one showed up for my 4pm tour (my last one of the day) I spent some time sitting behind the desk with Giale, but snuck out when she got busy with visitors around 4:30, and yep, you guessed it, walked back home in the rain. But again, it was ok, because I belted Christmas songs the whole way home and got to Anna's soaking wet, but in a very merry mood. I've now warmed up, showered, and now Hannah and I are waiting for dinner time. Successful weekend, aside from the part where I got all my homework done. On to that next!
| Piazza della Repubblica at night |
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Pisa and the British Invasion of Florence
Sam came back to Florence! Granted, it was with an ETS class, but I treasure every moment, and it's like seeing the city in a new light every time I'm with him! Here's what happened:
Thursday Sam got into Pisa at 8, and the original plan was for me to meet him at the hotel his class was staying at at 9:30 (by the time they got to Florence, and got situated, this seemed like a reasonable time). Haha well after a few delays and traffic and the class's stop at the Leaning Tower in Pisa, I got to their hotel on a 10:45 bus (the buses come once an hour after 9:30, so that had to be planned meticulously), arriving at the hotel around 11:15, right when they were walking in the door to check in. Va bene. I took Sam and his best friend from abroad Erick near the Duomo to get some food, and we ended up hanging around one of the bars/cafes/clubs (it's like a mix of all three, the going out places here serve multi-functional purposes) for a little just for something to do. We ended up running into a group of SUF students who knew Erick (small world!) so the group of us enjoyed the evening until late (dare I tell you?--3am) and instead of taking a cab home I crashed on the floor of the boys hotel room--seriously. Think Palm Springs back in the day when our family would go and Jackie/Tori would make a bed out of the cushions haha. I told Sam I'd leave early so I could get home (I didn't tell Anna I'd be sleeping out, otherwise it wouldn't have been a big deal) and slipped away at 7am--woof, brutal. But it was sunny with a few clouds, and I was glad the SUL class would have a sunny day to explore the city.
Wrong.
I went back to bed as soon as I got home and got a restful 2 hours of sleep (made all the difference in the world) and after preparing myself to conquer the day, headed out to meet the class at the Medici Chapels at San Lorenzo. And it was pouring rain. And continued to rain all weekend. Relentlessly. I didn't mind, obviously, but when I met up the with the class Erick said to Sam that I'd never fit in as an Italian, I was a) too happy b) too colorful (I was wearing my trench coat and a red scarf, that's not that colorful!) and c) too blonde-curly-haired.
I followed the class along the rest of the day, and Forbes, the professor of the class who Sam had introduced me to Thursday night at the hotel, overheard me "teaching" Sam about the Medici's and ended up having me speak my piece at every monument we went to thereafter. I was kicking myself for being such a know-it-all. But Sam said he's never been more proud! After the Medici Chapels the class broke for lunch and we went to a favorite sandwich place of mine where we saw three Italian women with wine that was steaming. I had no idea that they served mulled wine here, so Sam, Erick,
and I tried this "hot wine" and while it certainly wasnt the same as mulled wine with the spices and such, it was a warm pick me up after splashing around Florence. Kinda warms you up from the inside out. Interesting!
The class proceeded with a look inside San Lorenzo, a trip to the Duomo, and ended in the Baptistery where I accompanied them and got in free thanks to the generosity of Forbes and SUL (my museum pass only covers certain entrance fees, the Baptistery and most churches are not included) so I earned my keep by talking about the great mosaics of the Baptistery for the class, and I think I'm really lucky. The SUL kids who are art history majors/in art history classes (I talked to a few who were) sure, they'd have class at the National Gallery, but they don't get to study their stuff in the original context like I get to. Mom, you said in a previous email that maybe I was actually going to remember something from this semester of schooling. I absolutely agree, it not only helps to have that interactive learning where I'm on site for most of my classes, but even in the classroom, I can easily go into the city and apply what I learned to the things around me. They're like constant reminders, so how could I forget? I guess my point is that I was really easy to talk about the things Forbes was nudging my way, and I really enjoyed talking about them!
After a stop at their hotel to change into try shoes (did I mention it rained all day? You'd think these London kids would be used to it/own a pair of boots. Every single one of them had sneakers! Big thanks to Gram, the boots she got me at the end of the semester last year have been my life saver! They're adorable and waterproof without being rainboots!) Anyway, we headed to Villa Rossa where Forbes kind of MCed a discussion among SUF professors and/or local Florentines and his class. This was an event where he'd told his students to tell us, the SUF students, to come and participate. Except none of the questions he asked applied to us, or were directed at us. I'd invited as many friends as were in town (there was a Paris trip this weekend hosted by the school much like this Florence trip for the SUL kids where it was optional and you had to pay for it--Hannah went) and Sarah and Cynthia came. But regardless they served an AMAZING apperativo after with crostini and bread and FRESH olive oil (the harvest was last week!) and cheese and olives and Chianti wine and it was just delicious! We tried to formulate a plan for dinner for the group after, but realized a group of 22+ people was a big extreme to descend upon a restaurant without a reservation, so we broke off and Liz and I took a group of 8 SUL students to our favorite local student cheap great variety place, Il Gato e Il Volpe. Everyone was more than content, but really full from our apperativo (I'd told them--my vote was to skip a sitdown dinner and grab a slice of pizza or something...) so Sam and I were the smart ones who split gnocci! Especially since Italians don't believe in doggy bags...sorry Abby.
That night we were all filled to the brim with food and tired, so I headed home around 11:15 because I had a field study trip the next morning and had to get up early early early. Sam said he crashed as soon as I left. Anyway, so Pisa/Lucca was on my agenda for Saturday, and after a brutal 6:40 wake up call and my tendency to run late, I made it out the door with my breakfast in one hand and key in the other (I knew when I returned Anna was going to be mad I didn't wake her up to make me breakfast, but first of all I refuse to disturb the woman's sleep for something so selfish, and second of all I was late myself). But everything was fine and within two minutes of being on the coach bus for the trip I was asleep.
In Pisa we checked out the main complex, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and of course, their bell tower, or the Leaning Tower. I took one of those adorable touristy photos of me holding up the Leaning Tower--yeah just wait til it goes up, it's precious! Anyway, we learned about why its leaning, and then went to the Baptistery, which is much plainer than ours, but has an important pulpit we learned about in Black Death, and then at 11, a monk came in and called out notes--he didn't sing, but he called out different notes. And based on the acoustics in the Baptistery and the timing of his note-calling, it sounded like there was a whole choir in there!!! That was really really cool, something the Pisans have on the Florentines. All Florence's baptistery's good
for is shiny gold stuff. We spent some time in the Cathedral which also has an important pulpit and some important bronze doors, and then were told we might not do the second part of the day trip because of the crummy weather. Well my heart skipped a beat because that meant I'd get to go back to Florence and join in on the SUL tours! After that idea was put in our heads, an idea which 90% of the group was in favor of, the leaders said, just kidding, we're going to Lucca at least for lunch. Well ok. I mean, we were out and about anyway, when else was I going to get a chance to see Lucca?
We were dropped off within the city walls of Lucca, every fourth person was handed a map, and told, ok, you have two hours for lunch. When you're done, we'll let you know if we're going back to Florence or walking around the city on a walking tour. Sarah, Cynthia, and this new guy John (who reminds me of Bob Saget from his Full House days) and I meandered around this Medieval city with its twists and turns around markets and
such--it's a very pretty and very quaint little town, I really enjoyed it--until we popped into a cafe to grab some lunch. We reconvened at the meeting point, tired, full, and ready to get on the bus to take a nap, when the field study leader of the day said, well the weathers holding out, we're going to stay for another hour and a half and go on a walking tour of the city, but it was optional. Most of the kids didn't go, but Sarah, Cynthia, Bob Saget aka John and I figured why not, and I ended up being really glad we went! We went to three different churches, one of which has the un-decayed body of Santa Zita (Saint Elizabeth, we think), which was really cool and really weird at the same time! People were taking pictures, I felt like that was kind of sacreligious...but wasn't sure. She looked a little worse for wear...kind of mummified...but it was pretty cool nonetheless. We finished at the Lucca City walls, which are now preserved as a park/running path/biking path and enhances the city's beauty. The walls were kind of a joke back in the day, since Lucca was a peacefully little city with the big fat squat walls. But now they're really very lovely.
Anyway, we headed back to Florence, I crashed like the narcoleptic I am in moving vehicles, and arrived in Florence early still around 5:45. I headed home, cleaned myself up, and headed out to meet Sam around 6:45. After a major major lack of communication between the two of us (I blame myself, I'm the local, I shouldn't have expected him to give me directions to where he was, I should have designated a meeting point!), I found him with a group of other SUL kids at 8. They were trying to go to this restaurant called Dante on Oltrarno (YAY!!!! MY side of the Arno!!!! SUF kids avoid Oltrarno like the plague for no good reason) that serves free wine for students. They were glad to see me to
have someone who knew where they were going, and to have someone who spoke Italian. Unfortunately, Dante's was packed. And I panicked, I didn't have a back up plan for this area of the city. So we walked along the road and found an osteria a block down with a promising menu and very reasonable prices. It was a GREAT meal!!!!!! I love Oltrarno, it's so much less touristy and has so much to offer, and I loved that the SUL kids didn't know any better that it wasn't the "center" of the city, they were just as content to eat there as anywhere else. In fact, Sam said if he was every to come back to Florence in the future (i.e. with his parents, in future travels), he'd want to stay Oltrarno and see the more Tuscan side of the city, rather than the main attractions. God love him. Everyone at dinner was mad I wasn't with them all day, Sam said every single person in the group, including Forbes, asked him where I was that day and if I'd be joining them later, because it was more enjoyable to listen to me (showoff, in my opinion/talk, in theirs) than to listen to Forbes and his Florentine counterpart. I thought that was very sweet of them, and Sam said he was beaming with pride all afternoon. Awwww. Following dinner, I'd planned to crash at the hotel that night and go with the class to see the David and go to the Uffizi early the next morning, I was ready for bed, but Sam wanted to go out to a club we'd been to when he first came to Florence. It was the first time he and I had some alone time, and we only went out for an hour or two, but we had fun! When we returned, we'd found Erick had ended up going out with a group of SUL boys, and returned even later than we had. But we got a solid night's rest.
After a nice breakfast at the hotel and me pretending I'd just arrived at the hotel that morning when Forbes came to collect the group, we headed to the Academia to check out David, who I actually hadn't seen before. My museum pass got me in for free, and not only that, but I was able to cut the line, so I was ready to go a little before the class was! We spent about a half hour in the Academia with this GIGANTIC statue (I underestimated him---wow, big piece of marble), and then made our way across town to see my favorite gallery of art. A little unimpressed at how Forbes was presenting the information (ok, now I'm being an art snob, I know), and Sam still a little tired, and with the permission for the class to wander the galleries alone, we broke off from the group after moving from
pre-Black Death to early Renaissance art, and took our time to look at images as I pointed out my favorites to Sam. I mean, I go to the Uffizi on rainy Sunday afternoons for hours and hours just to have something to do occasionally, so after Palazzo Vecchio this was home.
When Sam complained of image overload (there's apparently a syndrome for that...) we tried to wait out the rain (nope, just kept raining) and walked along the Arno and locked a padlock on the Padlocks of Love by the Arno (awwwwww). After that he wanted to get some earrings for his mom, but the earrings place that I got the girls' earrings at was closed, so we made out a deal for me to pick them up, after he asked his mom if she still wore earrings (they're going to be in London for Thanksgiving)...anyway, that's just a side story. We strolled along Oltrarno and Sam wanted to try Dante's again, we were seated immediately and he treated me to a lovely fedaccini alfredo lunch (for me) and lasagna (for him) for lunch, which was very much the Italian version of comfort foods after walking around in the rain. The SUL kids had free time until they had to meet at 4:15 to leave for Pisa, but Sam didn't want to go to another museum, and instead we started heading back to the hotel to watch a movie in the lobby or something, but en route stopped at the olive oil festival in Piazza della Repubblica, where we tasted some really interesting oils and cheeses!!! Apparently we weren't the only ones who were looking to warm up at the hotel, and several other SUL kids had camped out out of the rain there.
I walked with Sam to the train station where they we catching a train to Pisa before their flight, and said goodbye and waved and cried (I'm such a baby) until their train pulled out of the station. I headed back home, arranged my schedule and rested for the remainder of the evening, and then joined Anna and Antoinetta for a delicious dinner of minestrone, our favorite chicken and vegetables, fruit, and panna cotta. Hannah walked a little after 10 and Anna warmed up a plate for her. I'm exhausted, and was looking forward to a good night's sleep in what feels like the world's now comfiest bed.
Thursday Sam got into Pisa at 8, and the original plan was for me to meet him at the hotel his class was staying at at 9:30 (by the time they got to Florence, and got situated, this seemed like a reasonable time). Haha well after a few delays and traffic and the class's stop at the Leaning Tower in Pisa, I got to their hotel on a 10:45 bus (the buses come once an hour after 9:30, so that had to be planned meticulously), arriving at the hotel around 11:15, right when they were walking in the door to check in. Va bene. I took Sam and his best friend from abroad Erick near the Duomo to get some food, and we ended up hanging around one of the bars/cafes/clubs (it's like a mix of all three, the going out places here serve multi-functional purposes) for a little just for something to do. We ended up running into a group of SUF students who knew Erick (small world!) so the group of us enjoyed the evening until late (dare I tell you?--3am) and instead of taking a cab home I crashed on the floor of the boys hotel room--seriously. Think Palm Springs back in the day when our family would go and Jackie/Tori would make a bed out of the cushions haha. I told Sam I'd leave early so I could get home (I didn't tell Anna I'd be sleeping out, otherwise it wouldn't have been a big deal) and slipped away at 7am--woof, brutal. But it was sunny with a few clouds, and I was glad the SUL class would have a sunny day to explore the city.
Wrong.
I went back to bed as soon as I got home and got a restful 2 hours of sleep (made all the difference in the world) and after preparing myself to conquer the day, headed out to meet the class at the Medici Chapels at San Lorenzo. And it was pouring rain. And continued to rain all weekend. Relentlessly. I didn't mind, obviously, but when I met up the with the class Erick said to Sam that I'd never fit in as an Italian, I was a) too happy b) too colorful (I was wearing my trench coat and a red scarf, that's not that colorful!) and c) too blonde-curly-haired.
I followed the class along the rest of the day, and Forbes, the professor of the class who Sam had introduced me to Thursday night at the hotel, overheard me "teaching" Sam about the Medici's and ended up having me speak my piece at every monument we went to thereafter. I was kicking myself for being such a know-it-all. But Sam said he's never been more proud! After the Medici Chapels the class broke for lunch and we went to a favorite sandwich place of mine where we saw three Italian women with wine that was steaming. I had no idea that they served mulled wine here, so Sam, Erick,
| Buonanno's Cathedral doors in Pisa |
The class proceeded with a look inside San Lorenzo, a trip to the Duomo, and ended in the Baptistery where I accompanied them and got in free thanks to the generosity of Forbes and SUL (my museum pass only covers certain entrance fees, the Baptistery and most churches are not included) so I earned my keep by talking about the great mosaics of the Baptistery for the class, and I think I'm really lucky. The SUL kids who are art history majors/in art history classes (I talked to a few who were) sure, they'd have class at the National Gallery, but they don't get to study their stuff in the original context like I get to. Mom, you said in a previous email that maybe I was actually going to remember something from this semester of schooling. I absolutely agree, it not only helps to have that interactive learning where I'm on site for most of my classes, but even in the classroom, I can easily go into the city and apply what I learned to the things around me. They're like constant reminders, so how could I forget? I guess my point is that I was really easy to talk about the things Forbes was nudging my way, and I really enjoyed talking about them!
| View of the Pisa Duomo from the Baptistery |
| Pisa Baptistery Pulpit |
In Pisa we checked out the main complex, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and of course, their bell tower, or the Leaning Tower. I took one of those adorable touristy photos of me holding up the Leaning Tower--yeah just wait til it goes up, it's precious! Anyway, we learned about why its leaning, and then went to the Baptistery, which is much plainer than ours, but has an important pulpit we learned about in Black Death, and then at 11, a monk came in and called out notes--he didn't sing, but he called out different notes. And based on the acoustics in the Baptistery and the timing of his note-calling, it sounded like there was a whole choir in there!!! That was really really cool, something the Pisans have on the Florentines. All Florence's baptistery's good
| Pisa Baptistery from the second story |
We were dropped off within the city walls of Lucca, every fourth person was handed a map, and told, ok, you have two hours for lunch. When you're done, we'll let you know if we're going back to Florence or walking around the city on a walking tour. Sarah, Cynthia, and this new guy John (who reminds me of Bob Saget from his Full House days) and I meandered around this Medieval city with its twists and turns around markets and
| Pisa Cathedral Pulpit and Interior |
Anyway, we headed back to Florence, I crashed like the narcoleptic I am in moving vehicles, and arrived in Florence early still around 5:45. I headed home, cleaned myself up, and headed out to meet Sam around 6:45. After a major major lack of communication between the two of us (I blame myself, I'm the local, I shouldn't have expected him to give me directions to where he was, I should have designated a meeting point!), I found him with a group of other SUL kids at 8. They were trying to go to this restaurant called Dante on Oltrarno (YAY!!!! MY side of the Arno!!!! SUF kids avoid Oltrarno like the plague for no good reason) that serves free wine for students. They were glad to see me to
| Walking along Lucca's wall |
| Medieval Lucca city wall |
| Pisa's Campo Santo--literally "Holy Ground" brought from Jeruselum and planted here |
When Sam complained of image overload (there's apparently a syndrome for that...) we tried to wait out the rain (nope, just kept raining) and walked along the Arno and locked a padlock on the Padlocks of Love by the Arno (awwwwww). After that he wanted to get some earrings for his mom, but the earrings place that I got the girls' earrings at was closed, so we made out a deal for me to pick them up, after he asked his mom if she still wore earrings (they're going to be in London for Thanksgiving)...anyway, that's just a side story. We strolled along Oltrarno and Sam wanted to try Dante's again, we were seated immediately and he treated me to a lovely fedaccini alfredo lunch (for me) and lasagna (for him) for lunch, which was very much the Italian version of comfort foods after walking around in the rain. The SUL kids had free time until they had to meet at 4:15 to leave for Pisa, but Sam didn't want to go to another museum, and instead we started heading back to the hotel to watch a movie in the lobby or something, but en route stopped at the olive oil festival in Piazza della Repubblica, where we tasted some really interesting oils and cheeses!!! Apparently we weren't the only ones who were looking to warm up at the hotel, and several other SUL kids had camped out out of the rain there.
I walked with Sam to the train station where they we catching a train to Pisa before their flight, and said goodbye and waved and cried (I'm such a baby) until their train pulled out of the station. I headed back home, arranged my schedule and rested for the remainder of the evening, and then joined Anna and Antoinetta for a delicious dinner of minestrone, our favorite chicken and vegetables, fruit, and panna cotta. Hannah walked a little after 10 and Anna warmed up a plate for her. I'm exhausted, and was looking forward to a good night's sleep in what feels like the world's now comfiest bed.
| Inside Campo Santo |
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Homesick? Not If Stephen Colbert Has Anything To Do With It!
I started to feel homesick after my return from London (posting coming about that trip soon!), and this little gem popped up in my newsfeed on Facebook. Really though, nothing can be wrong in the world when I'm watching this 1.49 minutes of pure genius. Please agree with me!
http://tv.gawker.com/5600274/
http://tv.gawker.com/5600274/
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Londontown Two
My flight into London was Wednesday night at 8:45. I ended class at 6, and had a bus to the airport at 6:45 (it takes an hour to the airport by bus). I was cutting it close, but it was doable, the airport's small and easy to get through. I got to the bus station no problem. 6:30, no bus, no worries. 6:40, no bus, some worries. 6:55 and the bus hasn't shown up and I'm starting to panic. 7:05 the bus finally leaves and I'm having a heart attack about making my flight. I arrive at the airport at 8:20, my ticket says the gate closes at 8:25. The bus driver saw that I was in a tizzy (oh and I was the only person on the bus) and pulls up right to the departures area, and I go flying through security (no line whatsoever) through boarder control (again no line) to find that the flight hadn't even started boarding, and I burst into tears. At least I got into London fine by 10:30 to find Sam waiting for me at the airport.
Thursday we began the day with an at-home brunch and then spent the better part of the day at the
British Museum looking at the ancient artifacts housed there. It was a change from the frescoes and paintings of Italy to explore the mummies and Greek and Roman marbles and bog men full preserved from the 17th century. It was very cool. Sam had to stop at Faraday House, the SU London campus to drop off some paperwork for Friday's events, and I ran into Jessica Kutcher, a fellow DG, and a friend of Courtney's! Sam said he wasn't surprised I'd find someone I knew. We then made our way to Covent Market to explore the rock n roll area of London where the Beatles used to play and Elton John used to work at a record shop. It was a completely different vibe! Sam took me to a mussels place for dinner where the time on the clock was the price of your meal--so we feasted on a giant bowl of mussels for 5 pounds, which was
awesome. As we made our way back to his flat, we walked through Leichester Square, the "Broadway" district if you will, only to walk through a throng of people behind gates. Of course, me being the little weasel I am in crowds made my way to the front to see what was up with Sam right behind me. We were walking right through the Harry Potter 7 world premier!!!!!!!!!!!! We literally caught the last MINUTE of the red carpet for the premier when the main cast posed for a final group photo and then entered the theater. TOTALLY stumbled upon it, I thought the premiers were NEXT weekend (with the release date--yeah I'm still hip all the way here in Europe) and a bunch of Florence kids are going to London for the premier, but no no, I saw Harry, Ron, Hermione, and JK Rowling herself pose for their final group photo right before the entered the theater.
Friday Sam signed us up for an all-school field trip to Oxford and Belheim Palace in the English countryside. We made our way to the Faraday House for our departure at 9:15 (waaaay later a departure time than any SUF field trip I've ever been on!) only to run into the one and only Jed Greenwald! Though he didn't seem as surprised to see me as I was to see him--he was still reeling from his night at the HP7 premier (apparently he stood outside all day and then missed JK Rowling down the red carpet cuz he had to use the restroom. He vowed he's never going to the bathroom again because he misses cool stuff when he does...). Also on the field trip were Tara Fothergill and Molly Tarsel from freshman year, and we took a couple minutes to catch up and chat! But anyway, we headed off to the Palace first, where many films are apparently shot, including the new Gulliver's Travel coming out this Xmas, and the Harry Potter forest scenes. We were given a guided tour of the castle where the 11th duke lives with his second (or third...) wife (you never know with those Lords and Ladies) as it was being decorated for Christmas. It was gaudy and decorative and the perfect example
of 18th century art and architecture (good thing I'm taking a class on that stuff next semester...) though after the tour we were quickly rounded up and sent off to Oxford about 15 minutes away, and Sam and I were equally bummed that we didn't have time on our own to explore the grounds (which included a rose garden, a haunted tower, a garden maze, an Italian garden, and an English garden). In Oxford, however, we were given the freedom to explore the college town and university on our own. Sam and I went to a pub off the
beaten track for the BEST fish and chips I've ever eaten (he had a burger and onion rings which were just as good). We then found a way to sneak onto the Oxford campus (I mean we're technically students, right?) and had fun in the great Oxford dining hall (which was filmed as the Great Hall in Harry Potter...I know, it was a very Harry 24 hours) and the many many gardens despite the chilly weather (not much rain though!). We got home from the field study trip in the early evening and headed to his flat where we made sweet and sour chicken and stir fry and spent the rainy night watching movies and drinking tea and eating apple crumble.
Saturday we headed to the Portabello Market in West London, which was like the Venice Beach of London if you will. Very hippie, yet filled with antiques and vendors selling such things as antique
china and toy soldiers. After walking through the market we headed to the opposite end of town where we got off at the tube stop right in front of Harrods. I just wanted a picture of the Harrod's sign, but Sam took me in to see the toy floor and the Christmas decorations. I was not ashamed of my touristiness and took pictures of the Egyptian elevator and the extravagance of the place. But I'll admit, the toy floor was really really really cool with demonstrations for the kids and toys to test and play
with. But, of course, we got lost (its HUGE) and left a little more frazzled than when we began. Down the street we went to a Japanese restaurant called Wagamama where Sam had won a raffle at SUL for a gift card, so we grabbed a late (3:30pm) lunch of noodles and miso soup and it was delightful! Our next plan of attack was to catch the Lord Mayor fireworks by the Themes, but because of work being done on the tube and the crowds for the fireworks, we were unable to grab a train and started the walk towards the river. We missed the fireworks right by the river, but were able to see them through the trees on our way, and it felt like a movie. I really enjoyed it! After getting to the Themes 5 minutes too late (in our defense, the fireworks were supposed to start at 5 and the began at 4:40 instead), we decided to make our way to the Natural History Museum to go ice skating. I shouldn't have been so surprised that Sam was so graceful on the ice as he excels at all physical activities, but for a boy who grew up on a tropical island I had no idea where he'd practiced his backwards skating technique! I had a lot of fun and held my own as well (no wipe outs for us)! We headed back to his flat afterward to warm up with tea and cookies, and made a late meal of sausage peppers and onions for dinner.
Sam sent me off at the airport this morning and as usual I cried (I'm such a silly fool but I can't help it) and I got into Florence around 6pm after a long day of traveling. I got home and I wasn't feeling in top shape, perhaps because all I had to eat was a big coffee that morning, or from lack of sleep, or jetlag, or saying goodbye to Sam, who knows. But I was on the bus en route to Anna's and I was glad to be back in Florence, but I got the overwhelming need to go home home. That's where the homesickness kicked in. And so as I was unpacking and talking about the weekend with Hannah, I told her what I was feeling, and she threw me a guidebook and told me that she felt the same way Friday but looking through the book help a lot. Anna called us to dinner with Antionetta our other unofficial host mom and Anna's best friend, and I still couldn't shake my funk. But I thought maybe I just wasn't feeling well because I didn't have anything in my stomach, so I started to dig in to our delicious dinner, but I started feeling physically sick. Then Antioneta asked what was going on in California, in terms of weather and seasons and family and when I mentioned my family I started to tear up and couldn't stop, and Anna and Antionetta did the grandmotherly thing and reassured me, and I totally knew I was being silly!!!! Especially when Antionetta had just pointed out how time's flown and we're leaving soon! But I told them I was being silly and they said I was just tired (I am) and not feeling well (I wasn't) and that it was natural. Anna gave me a warm glass of water with sugar to help my stomach (much better now) and I'm headed to bed now that I've finished a quick essay.
Thursday we began the day with an at-home brunch and then spent the better part of the day at the
| Sam at the British Museum |
British Museum looking at the ancient artifacts housed there. It was a change from the frescoes and paintings of Italy to explore the mummies and Greek and Roman marbles and bog men full preserved from the 17th century. It was very cool. Sam had to stop at Faraday House, the SU London campus to drop off some paperwork for Friday's events, and I ran into Jessica Kutcher, a fellow DG, and a friend of Courtney's! Sam said he wasn't surprised I'd find someone I knew. We then made our way to Covent Market to explore the rock n roll area of London where the Beatles used to play and Elton John used to work at a record shop. It was a completely different vibe! Sam took me to a mussels place for dinner where the time on the clock was the price of your meal--so we feasted on a giant bowl of mussels for 5 pounds, which was
| A pretty red double decker bus with a Harry Potter ad |
| What a lovely city! |
| Blenheim Palace |
| What a treat! |
| Cupcakes for two! |
| Hello Harrod's |
| Big Ben post-fireworks |
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